When 10 o’clock finally hit, we were both getting desperate for breakfast and opted for a local-to-Oregon restaurant chain called Burgerville. And I can emphatically say it is not just another “burger joint.” It is a fast-food setup but the ingredients are all real and fresh and local. And they use Tillamook cheese! And serve fresh halibut! And have really trendy, artsy gift cards! (Yes, I took a couple for souvenirs.) Our stop also racked up two firsts for me: Burgerville food and eating a cheeseburger for breakfast. At this point I knew our adventure had only begun.

Next we headed to Astoria, one of the most northwest points in Oregon. A logical starting point for a trip down the coast, sure, but somewhat accidental on our part because we took the wrong highway early on and didn’t notice until we were more than halfway to Astoria. But it worked itself out – and hey, without the diversion, we would have missed a sea of young women in tiaras, booked out hotels and jam-packed roads – all there for the annual regatta. It’s a big deal to the Astorians.

Once underway down the coast, we passed the Tillmook factory (we waved but did not stop) and the Hebo Inn – a dive of a restaurant that is famous for being infamous, complete with a huge painted sign on the top of the building that sported two backwards N’s in the word Inn. And if that isn’t an indication, I’m not sure what is.

In the afternoon we reached our destination of Newport and the Sylvia Beach Hotel. Situated right on the coastline, it proudly overlooks the beach and offers a unique blend of amenities. Every room in the hotel is an homage to a famous writer, author or journalist and is decorated in that person’s style or period. For us, we had the Lincoln Steffens room. The iconic piece we had in our room was an old-fashioned typewriter on an antique desk. Although the hotel does not indulge technology (no TVs, phone or internet) it did offer a top-floor library and sitting area, a restaurant that serves one dinner shift per night plus breakfast in the morning, a cute gift shop, balcony views of the ocean and two on-premise cats. One came to visit our room – a large, orange, fluffy one that was very mellow and seemed content simply to stare at me disinterestedly while occasionally rubbing against my legs.

The town of Newport was charming, particularly in the area of shops, galleries and cafes surrounding the hotel. We explored equally between the car and on foot. While out on one of our drives, we encountered a large sign on the side of the road that read, quite simply, “Porn hurts everyone.” It was situated in between an adult book store and a blank plot of land that was to become the future home of The Salvation Army. Appropriate, no? To top it off, when we passed the sign we noticed a man standing underneath it and a women several paces out with a camera. Seems Karen and I were not the only ones who found it amusing.

My photos do not do the clouds justice, but it was a cellphone camera so forgive it its shortcomings. There were layers upon layers of clouds in all shapes and sizes that formed pockets and valleys, opening in spots to the ground below. It was fascinating, mesmerizing, beautiful. I’ve been on lots of flights over the years but nothing compares to the wonder I felt gazing at these. My only regret is that I could not capture them pictorially the way they really looked.

Once I arrived in Portland, Karen and I hopped on the light rail and took that into downtown – the path it took slowly revealing the city as each suburb arrives and fades in turn. Next, we found our hotel for the night – Ace Hotel – a hip, modern, unpretentious stay. The bed: a mattress on a platform; the toilet: sequestered away behind a sliding wooden door; the entertainment: a turntable with a modest selection of old vinyl records; the walls: painted with flip-book style imagery of a diver doing an underwater turn in a pool; the shower: spacious and airy, boasting tile to the half-way point and finishing with a large pane of glass. In a word: cool.

After getting settled in the hotel, we set out on foot to locate something for dinner. As it was getting quite late, our options were somewhat limited, even for a downtown area. A few blocks away we saw a sign that beckoned and seemed encouraging – Jake’s Famous Crawfish. Run by McCormick & Schmick’s, Jake’s is considered one of the top ten seafood restaurants in the nation and has been a downtown Portland landmark for more than 110 years (source: Jake’s website). Unfortunately I can’t vouch for that specifically because Karen and I shared a delicious shrimp appetizer and a tantalizing piece of chocolate truffle cake with raspberry puree. But, even that was memorable and I would definitely go back on a future trip to Portland. Plus, the place was packed despite the late hour, so that’s always a good sign.

When we finished dinner, we walked off our food by visiting Powell’s Books – the largest independent used and new bookstore in the world. I had always wanted to visit one but, for whatever reason, never had the chance before. As we approached it, all I saw was the main entrance and I was confused because it looked quite small. Then, as we entered, I realized the joke was on me. Filling an entire city block (both storeys!) it featured color-coded rooms and an unimaginable collection of books and book-related products. Truly, it was mind-boggling – I immediately felt a mix of jubilation and overwhelm. It was hard to know where to start. So we did what anyone might do in our shoes: we alternatively wandered and tested the clerks with obscure trivia about the location of specific books. And they knew every time.

If you’re ever in the area, I would recommend all three of our Portland destinations – Ace Hotel, Jake’s Famous Crawfish and Powell’s.

Details.

In fact, to kick-off in style, I’m heading out to Oregon next week for a road trip/change-of-scenery vacation with my friend Karen. I plan to post about our adventures here, including photos, for anyone who cares to follow where our tracks may lead.

Until then, be well. Or be prepared. You choose.